A potjie is a round, three-legged cast iron pot, and potjiekos is what is cooked in it: South Africa’s stew of the open fire. Tony Jackman traces it, in the Daily Maverick, to the Voortrekkers, who “used their three-legged cast iron pots to cook in at the end of the day’s trek”, and notes that it was largely forgotten until “in the 1980s, South Africans rediscovered the potjie in a big way”, with competitions in every small town.
The rules of the revival were strict. Meat at the bottom, then onions, then vegetables, then potatoes on top, each in its layer, and: “You never stirred your potjie during its two to three hours of cooking.” The sauce went in “from the edge of the pot; not too much”, and the lid stayed on. The point is that each layer cooks in the steam of the one below and keeps its own texture and taste, instead of the whole pot becoming one stew.
Jackman himself thinks the old rigidity was overdone, and this version breaks the biggest rule, the time, because tins do not need it. The substitutions explain why. But it keeps the layers and keeps the spoon out, which is what stops tinned food turning to mush.
Use very little heat. A potjie with this little liquid, left unstirred, will burn on the bottom if the fire underneath is too strong. A few coals under the pot and none on the lid, and you should hear a gentle bubble, not a sizzle.
- Set the pot over a small bed of embers. Heat the oil, add the dried onion and cook for two minutes, then the garlic, ginger, cumin, cinnamon, turmeric and chilli for one minute more.
- Layer, in this order: the drained chicken in large pieces; the drained carrots and chickpeas; the apricots, torn in half; and the drained potatoes, halved, on top.
- Mix the tomatoes with the crumbled stock cube and 150 ml of water. Pour it in gently at the edge of the pot, not over the top.
- Lid on. Cook 35 to 40 minutes over the low embers without stirring or lifting the lid. Add a coal or two under the pot if the bubbling stops, and take some away if it starts to smell of toasting.
- Serve by digging straight down with a big spoon, so each plate gets every layer.
On one burner: the lowest possible flame, ideally with a heat diffuser under the pot, for 30 minutes.
Serve with bread, or with damper.
Serves 4.