Dried chickpeas rather than tinned, because this is the dish where the difference is most obvious: tinned are soft all the way through, dried cooked properly hold their shape and have a nutty centre.
It costs a soak and an hour of fuel, which is why this is a pantry recipe rather than a trip one.
- Soak overnight in plenty of cold water. They roughly double. The ratios and the reasons are on pulse rehydration.
- Drain, fresh water, bring to the boil and simmer 45 to 60 minutes until they give when pressed. Keep a mugful of the cooking water.
- Separate pan or the same one wiped out: oil, dried onion, garlic and ginger for three minutes.
- Cumin, turmeric and curry powder, twenty seconds.
- Passata in with the salt. Cook it down hard for ten minutes before the chickpeas join it. This is where the depth comes from and it is the step most often rushed.
- Chickpeas in with a splash of their water. Fifteen minutes more.
- Lemon juice off the heat, not in the pan. Cooked sour tastes dull.
Serves 4 with rice or flatbread.