“Refried” is a mistranslation of refritos, which means well fried rather than twice fried. That is the instruction: fry them properly, longer than feels necessary.
- Drain the beans but keep the liquid. You will need it.
- Oil, dried onion two minutes. Garlic, cumin and paprika for twenty seconds.
- Beans in. Fry them for a full four minutes before touching them with a masher, so the outsides break down and catch.
- Mash directly in the pan, adding the reserved bean liquid a spoon at a time until it is thick but not stiff.
- Keep frying and stirring for four minutes more. It will darken and start to pull away from the pan. That is the point at which it is done, not before.
- Salt and lemon juice off the heat.
Underfried beans taste of tinned beans. The colour change is the signal and it takes longer than most people give it.
Serves 3 on flatbread or with rice.