The entire dish turns on drying the mushrooms. Straight from the tin they are waterlogged, and waterlogged mushrooms steam grey however hot the pan is.
Drain them, tip them onto a cloth or a plate, press them, and leave them while you make the bread. Then dry them again.
- Flatbread: 150 g flour, salt, about 90 ml water. Knead a minute, divide in two, press thin. Fry in oil, 90 seconds a side, until blistered. Set aside.
- Same pan, hot, more oil. Mushrooms in one layer and left alone for three minutes. Do not stir: that is the browning happening.
- Turn, another two minutes. Garlic granules, herbs and pepper for thirty seconds.
- Worcestershire sauce around the edge of the pan so it sizzles and reduces rather than making everything wet.
- Straight onto the fried bread.
Worcestershire sauce is anchovy, tamarind and vinegar, which is exactly the savoury-sour depth mushrooms want and nothing else in the cupboard provides.
Serves 2.