Twenty-five grams of dried mushrooms weigh nothing and make a stock with more depth than any cube. The soaking liquid is the soup: that is the whole trick, and pouring it away is the mistake.
- Cover the mushrooms with 1.2 litres of just-boiled water. Fifteen minutes.
- Lift them out, squeeze them over the bowl, slice them. Keep the liquid, but leave the last centimetre behind, grit settles there.
- Oil in the pan, dried onion for three minutes until sweet-smelling. Herbs and pepper for thirty seconds.
- Mushroom liquid in with the stock cube and the sliced mushrooms. Simmer 15 minutes.
- Bulgur in for the last 10 minutes. Drained carrots for the last 3, any longer and they disintegrate.
- Vinegar off the heat.
It thickens as it stands and will be almost a stew by the time you have washed up, which is not a fault.
Serves 4.