Two kinds of mushroom doing two different jobs: the dried ones for flavour, which they have and the tinned ones do not, and the tinned ones for texture and something to actually brown.
- Dried mushrooms covered with 800 ml just-boiled water, 15 minutes. Lift, squeeze, slice. Keep the liquid, minus the gritty base.
- Drain the tinned mushrooms and dry them hard: wet mushrooms steam grey instead of browning.
- Hot pan, oil, tinned mushrooms in one layer, three minutes untouched. Turn, two more. Add the sliced dried ones, garlic and herbs for thirty seconds. Tip the lot into a bowl.
- Mushroom liquid into the pan with the salt, brought to the boil. Rain the polenta in with one hand while stirring hard with the other, all at once and it lumps irreversibly.
- Five minutes stirring until it drops from the spoon in a thick ribbon.
- Polenta into bowls, mushrooms over, plenty of pepper and a thread of oil.
Serves 3.