Whole plum tomatoes rather than chopped, because chopped tomatoes are usually a lesser grade of fruit and this dish is mostly tomato.
- Oil on a low heat. Anchovies in, and mashed with the back of a spoon until they dissolve completely. Three or four minutes. If you can still see them, keep going.
- Garlic, chilli and oregano, thirty seconds.
- Tomatoes in with their juice, each one crushed in your hand or against the pan as it goes.
- Twenty-five minutes at a slow bubble, uncovered. It should reduce by about a third and darken considerably.
- Capers in for the last two minutes so they keep their sharpness.
No salt. Anchovies and capers between them bring more than enough.
Nobody eating this will identify anchovy. They will notice if you leave it out.
Serves 3 over pasta, polenta or bread.