Drain the meatballs and keep the gravy in a mug. This is the entire trick. The gravy is salty and floury and it will thicken your sauce into something claggy if you tip the tin straight in, but two spoonfuls added at the end give back the savoury note you lose by draining.
- Meatballs drained and patted as dry as you can manage. Oil in a hot pan, then the meatballs, and leave them alone for two minutes before turning. They are fragile and they will break if you fuss them.
- Lift them out. Dried onion, garlic and oregano into the same pan for thirty seconds.
- Passata and the sugar in. Hard simmer for ten minutes, not a gentle one. You want it to reduce and darken, and the difference between five minutes and ten is most of the flavour.
- Two spoonfuls of the reserved gravy, then the meatballs back in for three minutes to warm through.
- Pasta cooked separately, drained, and the sauce spooned over rather than tossed through, so the meatballs stay whole.
Pepper at the table. It will not need salt.
Serves 3.