Four ingredients doing real work, and the browning of the onion is all of it.
Take the onion further than feels safe. Pale gold is not enough, you want deep amber, right at the edge of catching, because that colour is the entire flavour of the soup. It takes about five minutes in hot oil and goes from right to burnt in fifteen seconds, so stand over it.
- Oil hot, dried onion in. Stir constantly. Deep amber, then immediately add a splash of water to stop it cooking further.
- 1.2 litres of water, the stock cubes, herbs and barley.
- Simmer, lid ajar, 40 minutes, until the barley is tender and the broth has thickened around it.
- Malt vinegar and a lot of black pepper off the heat.
Malt rather than cider vinegar here on purpose: it is rougher and maltier, and the dish is already brown and sweet enough to carry it.
Serves 4.