Unfashionable and very good, and it costs about forty pence.
Semolina goes into liquid that is already hot, in a thin stream, stirring. Tipped in cold it lumps instantly and nothing gets the lumps out again. This is the only difficult part and it lasts about fifteen seconds.
- Evaporated milk and 200 ml of water into the pan with the sugar and salt. Heat until it is steaming but not boiling.
- Semolina rained in with one hand while the other stirs. Keep stirring.
- Low heat, five to seven minutes, stirring most of the time. It will thicken to the point where the spoon leaves a trail.
- Into bowls, with a spoonful of jam dropped in the middle.
Do not stir the jam in. The point is the contrast between the sharp red and the bland, and stirring gives you pink sludge.
It sets firmer as it cools, so take it off a little looser than you want it.
Serves 3.