Three tins and a box of cereal, and what comes out is a proper fish cake with a crust that shatters.
Everything must be dry. Drained salmon, drained potatoes, both pressed firmly in the tin lid or against the side of the pan. Wet mixture will not hold a shape and will not crisp, and there is no fixing it once it is in the oil.
- Crush the cornflakes in the bag with a mug or the heel of your hand. You want coarse crumbs with some flakes left recognisable, not dust. Tip onto a plate.
- Crush the potatoes roughly with a fork. Flake the salmon in, bones and all if you like them, they are soft and they are most of the calcium.
- Mayonnaise, dried onion, mustard and pepper. Fold rather than beat. Stop the moment it holds together.
- Shape four cakes, firmly, about 2 cm thick. Press each side into the cornflakes and press them on properly, they need contact to stick.
- Moderate heat, not high. Oil about 3 mm deep. Four to five minutes a side until deep gold. Cornflakes carry sugar and will go from brown to burnt in under a minute on a fierce flame.
Turn once and only once. They are fragile until the first crust sets, and every time you poke them you lose some of it.
A wedge of the bottled lemon juice over them at the table, and the mustard jar within reach.