Harissa earns its place in a small box of ingredients better than almost anything: heat, acidity, garlic and roasted pepper in one jar, at about ninety grams. A spoonful does what a whole set of aromatics would otherwise do.
Couscous is the other half of the argument. It does not cook — it rehydrates off the heat, which means the burner is on for the stew only, and one portion is exactly as easy as four.
- Warm the oil, add the harissa and let it fry for a minute. Frying the paste rather than stirring it in at the end is the difference between it tasting raw and tasting cooked.
- Tomatoes in, then the chickpeas with about half their liquid. Simmer 10 minutes, pressing some of the chickpeas against the pan.
- While that goes, put the couscous in a bowl or mug with a pinch of salt and a splash of oil, and pour over 180 ml of boiling water. Cover with a plate and leave it alone for five minutes, then fork it through.
- Lemon juice into the stew off the heat. Taste for salt.
The ratio for couscous is roughly 1.2 times its volume in boiling water. Worth committing to memory — it is the same whatever quantity you are making.
Serves 2.